Leather Straps for the Omega Speedmaster: How to Choose

A good leather strap for an Omega Speedmaster Professional works with its black dial and steel case. For a sporty look, we like a perforated rally-style strap in Saffiano calfskin. For a cleaner look, a slim calfskin strap in a soft neutral such as taupe. If you miss the presence of the bracelet, a padded strap fills the space between the lugs with more body.

The current 42mm Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has 20mm lugs, and we make 20-16 and 20-18 straps for it. If your Speedmaster is a different model, measure it. Below are the straps we have photographed on a Speedmaster Professional, with honest notes on what each one does to the watch.

What to look for in a Speedmaster strap

Start with the dial and case. The Speedmaster Professional in our photos has a black dial with white hands and markings, three sub-dials and a black tachymeter bezel on a steel case. To our eye that high-contrast face works with most strap colours, so the choice is more about mood than matching.

Then think about thickness. Many chronographs have visually substantial cases, and a very thin strap can make the head look top-heavy. A Slim strap (2.5mm at the lugs) keeps things clean and close to the wrist. A Padded strap (4.5mm at the lugs) adds body that visually balances the case.

Finally, the move from bracelet to leather. A leather strap tends to make the watch feel lighter and quieter on the wrist. The trade-off is water. The strap is not waterproof: wipe off moisture promptly and let it dry naturally at room temperature. For the beach or pool, the bracelet is the better choice.

Hybrid Rally Pilot straps: the sporty choice

Visually, we find a perforated rally-style strap suits a sporty chronograph with a tachymeter bezel. Our Hybrid Rally Pilot strap has three large round holes with smaller holes beside them near the lugs. It is made in the Saffiano calfskin Cernir uses, from Superior in Italy: a crosshatch grain pressed into the leather. In our experience it feels firm and structured from the first wear, and its textured surface can make light marks less noticeable, though it cannot prevent cuts or damage from sharp objects.

We make it in four colours, and each changes the look of the watch in a different way:

• Black Saffiano Hybrid Rally Pilot. Black stitching and a black strap continue the dial and bezel, so the watch reads as one dark, sporty piece. The quietest of the four.
• Forest Green Saffiano Hybrid Rally Pilot. Tonal green stitching on a deep green that, to our eye, adds colour without fighting the dial. Easy with navy, grey and denim.
• Taupe Saffiano Hybrid Rally Pilot. A warm grey-brown with tonal taupe stitching that softens the steel. We find it the easiest of the four to wear with most clothes.
• Mustard Yellow Saffiano Hybrid Rally Pilot. The boldest option. Strong contrast against the black dial, with matching stitching that keeps the perforations as the main detail. For wearers who like colour, a good weekend strap.

Two honest limits. The perforations give the strap a casual, motorsport-inspired look, so it is not the one we would wear with a suit. And the Hybrid Rally Pilot does not take initials on the lining. You can see all four together in our Hybrid Rally Pilot collection.

Taupe Epsom Slim: the cleaner option

If you want the Speedmaster to look a little dressier, a plain Slim strap does it. Our Taupe Epsom Leather Slim Watch Strap uses the Epsom calfskin Cernir sources from Tanneries Haas in France, a calfskin with a fine embossed grain. Its firm temper helps it hold defined lines. The cream stitching picks up the white hands and markings, and to our eye the taupe sits comfortably beside polished and brushed steel. We have also photographed it on another steel chronograph, a Rolex Daytona, in our leather strap guide for Rolex watches.

The trade-offs: in our experience this Epsom is firm at first and gradually conforms to the wrist with wear. And at 2.5mm at the lugs, the Slim style can leave a substantial case looking relatively tall. If that bothers you, a padded strap fills the gap better.

Grey Sailcloth Padded: closest to the bracelet's presence

The Grey Sailcloth Padded Watch Strap is a rubber strap with a sailcloth-pattern surface and a raised, cushioned centre. On the Speedmaster its cool grey sits close to the colour of the steel case, so the watch looks tonal and understated, and the padding visually balances the case.

It is the most casual of the group, and its textured rubber is a step away from smooth leather. If you like the padded shape but prefer leather, browse our padded leather straps, or see the other colours in our sailcloth straps.

Getting the size right

For a 20mm Speedmaster we make 20-18 and 20-16. Visually, a 20-18 keeps the strap broad, which we think suits the sporty rally and padded straps. A 20-16 gives a cleaner, dressier line that works well with the Slim Epsom. If your Speedmaster is a different model, or you are not sure which one you own, measure it first with our guide on how to find your lug width.

For length, our watch strap sizing guide explains S, M and L, and the strap length finder uses your wrist circumference and the watch's lug-to-lug length. Each strap comes with quick-release spring bars fitted, so a swap is usually done by hand, without tools; our guide on how to change a watch strap shows the steps. Choose the silver buckle finish if you want it to match the steel case.

Frequently asked questions

What size strap fits an Omega Speedmaster Professional?

The current 42mm Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has 20mm lugs, and we make 20-16 and 20-18 for it. If your Speedmaster is a different model, measure the gap between the lugs before ordering.

Which strap colour suits a black-dial Speedmaster?

It comes down to taste. We find black gives a tonal, sporty look, taupe and grey soften the steel and go with most clothes, and forest green and mustard yellow add colour while the black dial keeps the watch grounded.

Is a leather strap practical for everyday wear on a Speedmaster?

Yes, with sensible care. The strap is not waterproof, so wipe off moisture promptly and let it dry naturally at room temperature. Our guide to leather watch strap care covers the rest.

Can I add initials to a Hybrid Rally Pilot strap?

No. Free initials or a short name of up to 10 characters on the lining are available on our other straps, but not on the Hybrid Rally Pilot.